Performance Coach

Performance Coach

The Performance Coach Award is currently under development. This high level Coaching Award will be aimed at Coaches who are involved in the long term development of individual climbers and squads/academies. The emphasis will be on helping talented climbers to fulfil their potential in achieving specific high performance aims and goals. As a lead coach in an academy, the Performance Coach will also be familiar with recruiting external specialist help, and deploying Foundation and Development Coaches in support of their climbers.

Useful Resources

Getting Started

Prospective Performance Coaches can apply to join an experienced cohort of candidates, who will then attend three core training courses together on fixed dates - details below (and in the Training tab). The training courses are delivered annually each autumn, assuming there are sufficient applicants to make a viable cohort.

Subject matter experts will facilitate three core training courses, each with a specific focus: Planning, Delivery and Reviewing (also referred to as reflective practice). Candidates will share ideas throughout the three days and complete mentored assignments and tasks between each course, to become a self-supporting, developmental community of practice.

Candidates will bring their own coaching experience, and knowledge of mental and physical skills training, in order to explore how best to achieve their climbers' goals. Whether that be an improved grade (indoors or out, roped or bouldering) or preparation for a specific event: a trip; a redpoint attempt or a competition (or series). With the focus on the coaching process, the core training courses are equally applicable to all styles of climbing.

To get started on the Performance Coach qualification you need to meet the following prerequisites:

  • You must have a substantial depth and breadth of personal climbing experience, and provide evidence of having successfully climbed (onsight) up to 7a within your climbing career.
  • You must be a qualified Development Coach.
  • You must have delivered over 200 hours of relevant coaching and logged these sessions (ideally in DLOG) in order to provide evidence of the quantity and quality of coaching.
  • You must have completed FUNdamentals of Climbing 1, 2 and 3, and Physical Training 1.
  • You must have attended (or be able to demonstrate equivalent training and experience to) the Physical Training 2 course.
  • You must have attended (or be able to demonstrate equivalent training and experience to) the Mental Skills Training course - specification of course content to follow.
  • You must provide evidence of appropriate (and current) first aid and safeguarding training.
  • There must be a reference in the Referee tab of your DLOG, in support of your registration application.
If you can satisfy the prerequisites, here's what to do next:
  • Check the dates on the Training tab – successful applicants will need to attend all three courses.
  • Complete the Performance Coach Registration Application form and DLOG with the prerequisites, including a referee.
  • Register on the scheme through your CMS account and pay the registration fee.
  • Notify Mountain Training (via the 'Send to Mountain Training' button on the 'Share' tab in DLOG) that your DLOG is ready to be reviewed and there is a reference in your DLOG.

All registrants must be a member of the Mountaineering Council (or a member of an affiliated club) for their home nation.


  • Registration for the Performance Coach (this costs €95)

Training

Peformance Coach training incorporates three one-day courses delivered to a fixed cohort of candidates each year.

Like any other Mountain Training qualification, the training will focus on the elements of the syllabus that coaches may struggle to develop on their own. Unlike other qualifications, the training is a developmental scheme in itself, with a series of sessions attended over several months, with mentored practical assignments in between.

Training course 1: PLAN:

  • Assignment 1: Evidence based profile of two climbers
  • Assignment 2: Complete a self audit (SWOT) of current coaching skills

Training course 2: DO:

  • Assignment 3: Develop profiles into training plans and deliver
  • Assignment 4: Critically observe and feedback on two other coaches

Training course 3: REVIEW:

  • Assignment 5: Review and reflect self audit

The 2023 dates for the above modules are:
  • Course 1: 5th September
  • Course 2: 17th October
  • Course 3: 28th November
Courses will take place within the central England region, between Manchester, Birmingham and Sheffield.

Consolidation

Following completion of all three Performance Coach training courses, candidates are required to create a portfolio as part of the assessment application process.

The 'portfolio' is not necessarily written, but candidates need to evidence the depth and breadth of their coaching experience, and developmental learning throughout the pathway. We have no interest in favouring the written word; not discriminating against those who find written evidence is not their strength. Hence, portfolios will be accepted as audio and video recordings as well as written documents. The import thing is to work with a mentor to ensure your portfolio represents your depth and breadth of coaching, and demonstrates you have the skills and experience to fulfil the syllabus.

Assessment

Once your portfolio has been approved by your mentor; and your application has been agreed by a member of the training and assessment team, you may proceed to book an assessment. Each assessment is a bespoke and holistic process, and will include an interview of your experience and progress, as well as a final practical (observed) coaching session with a long-term client/climber.


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